Simon Porte Jacquemus does not make complicated clothes

Simon Porte Jacquemus does not make complicated clothes. He makes a white shirt with sleeves that balloon at the cuff, a straw hat the width of a steering wheel, a handbag so small it fits three cards and a lip balm. These are not practical decisions. They are, however, legible ones. You see a Jacquemus piece and you know what it is before you check the label.

That clarity has made the house a gateway for a certain kind of buyer: someone who wants fashion that photographs well but doesn't require a degree in semiotics to wear. The risk, of course, is that you end up with a Le Chiquito gathering dust because it holds nothing, or a pair of trousers cut so low they only work with a specific height and nerve. The trick to buying Jacquemus intelligently is to separate the runway gesture from the thing you'll actually use. Not every piece is a stunt. Some are just very good at what they do.

What follows is a map, organised by budget, of where to begin. These are the pieces that work beyond the Instagram grid, the ones that justify the investment not because they are iconic—God help us—but because they function.

Under €200: The Bucket Hat

Jacquemus's Le Bob Gadjo is the house's most accessible entry point, and it happens to be one of its most useful. It is a cotton bucket hat with a wide, floppy brim and an embroidered logo. You can fold it into a jacket pocket. It costs around €95.

The hat works because it does not try to be anything other than a summer hat. It keeps the sun off your face. It looks good with linen trousers and a white T-shirt. It does not require styling. You put it on and you look like someone who has been to the south of France, whether or not you have.

The construction is straightforward: unlined cotton twill, topstitched brim, adjustable drawstring inside the crown. It will fade if you wear it often, which is fine. A bucket hat should look lived-in. If you want something that lasts longer, the raffia version (Le Bob Artichaut) runs closer to €150 and ages better, though it cannot be folded.

€200–€500: Le Chiquito, If You Must—Or the Cardholder

The Le Chiquito is the bag everyone knows. It is roughly the size of a matchbox. It holds almost nothing. It costs between €250 and €450 depending on the finish. You buy it because it is funny, or because you want a bag that looks like a bag but does not function like one. That is a valid reason. It is not, however, a practical one.

If you want something from Jacquemus that actually stores your belongings, skip the micro bag and go for the Le Porte Azur cardholder. It is a slim leather wallet with four card slots and a centre pocket for folded notes. It costs around €195. The leather is smooth calfskin, the stitching is clean, and the logo is debossed on the front. It is not a conversation piece. It is a cardholder that happens to be well made.

The other option in this range is the Le Bob Pasteque, a striped canvas bucket hat that costs around €250. It is less versatile than the solid version, but it photographs better, which may or may not matter to you.

€500–€1,000: Le Grand Bambino

This is the bag that works. The Le Grand Bambino is a top-handle tote in smooth or croc-embossed leather, roughly 30cm wide, with a single compartment and a detachable shoulder strap. It costs between €590 and €750 depending on the season and finish. It is large enough for a laptop, a book, a jumper, and the other things you carry when you leave the house for more than two hours.

The construction is simple: a structured base, a magnetic closure, and a handle that sits flat when you are not holding it. The leather is thick enough to hold its shape but soft enough that it does not look stiff. The hardware is brass-toned and minimal. You can carry it by the handle or sling it over your shoulder. It works with jeans. It works with a suit. It does not require you to dress around it.

The bag comes in seasonal colours—lilac, olive, sand—but the black and off-white versions are the ones that last. If you are spending €700 on a bag, buy one that will not look dated in eighteen months.

€1,000–€2,000: La Robe Valensole

Jacquemus's dresses are where the house makes its case for actual tailoring. La Robe Valensole is a linen midi dress with a fitted bodice, a gathered skirt, and thin straps. It costs around €890. The cut is simple, but the fit is not. The bodice is darted at the bust and tapered at the waist. The skirt falls just below the knee and has enough volume that it moves when you walk.

The linen is a mid-weight fabric, substantial enough that it does not wrinkle into oblivion after one wear. The dress comes in solid colours and occasional prints, but the navy and cream versions are the most versatile. You can wear it with sandals in July and boots in September. It works for a wedding. It works for dinner. It does not work for the office, unless your office is unusually relaxed.

The dress requires tailoring. The straps are adjustable, but the bodice is not. If you are between sizes, size up and have it taken in. A well-fitted Valensole is the difference between looking like you are wearing a costume and looking like you own a dress that fits.

Over €2,000: La Veste Santon

The La Veste Santon is a cropped linen blazer with a nipped waist and a single button. It costs around €1,200. It is cut high under the arm and short at the hem, which means it only works if you are prepared to show your waist. This is not a blazer you wear over a jumper. It is a blazer you wear over a fitted shirt, or nothing at all.

The linen is a tightly woven fabric, closer to a suiting weight than a summer cloth. The shoulders are lightly padded. The lapels are narrow. The button is placed just below the bust, which creates a clean line from shoulder to hip. The blazer works with high-waisted trousers or a matching skirt, both of which Jacquemus makes and both of which will push you past €2,000 for the full look.

If you are going to spend this much on a Jacquemus piece, make sure it fits. The house's tailoring is unforgiving. A jacket that is too tight will pull at the button. A jacket that is too loose will lose its shape. Try it on in person if you can.

Care and Longevity

Jacquemus's leather goods are made in Italy and will last as long as you condition them. Use a soft cloth and a neutral cream every few months. Avoid rain. The hardware will tarnish slightly over time, which is fine—it is brass, not gold plate.

The linen pieces require more care. Dry-clean the tailoring. Hand-wash the dresses if you are confident, machine-wash on a gentle cycle if you are not. Line-dry everything. Do not tumble. Linen will soften with wear, but it will also fade. If you want a piece to hold its colour, keep it out of direct sunlight when you are not wearing it.

The hats are canvas or raffia. Spot-clean with a damp cloth. Do not soak. Store them upside down so the brim keeps its shape. A Jacquemus bucket hat will last three summers if you treat it well, longer if you do not wear it every day.