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Versace makes shoes that photograph well

Marcus Wright··5 min

Versace makes shoes that photograph well. This is not criticism—it is acknowledgment of a house that has always understood spectacle. The question, less often asked, is whether those shoes hold up past the first season. Whether the soles stay glued, whether the leather breaks in rather than breaks down, whether you can walk more than three blocks without regretting the choice.

The answer depends on the model. Versace's catalogue is broad, and not all of it is built the same way. Some pieces are pure runway theatre—meant to be seen, not worn daily. Others, quieter in their construction, use the same Italian suppliers that feed half of Milan's serious shoemakers. The trick is knowing which is which.

This is not about logomania or restraint. It is about durability. About whether a shoe that costs what Versace charges can justify the outlay beyond the first few wears. I have owned three models long enough to say something useful about them. One is a loafer that has lasted four years. One is a sneaker that needed resoling after eighteen months. One is a Chelsea boot I would buy again tomorrow.

What follows is not a greatest-hits list. It is a report on what holds, what fades, and what you should expect if you are spending your own money.

The Loafer That Earns Its Keep

The Medusa plaque loafer—black calfskin, Goodyear-welted, no tassel—has been in Versace's catalogue since the mid-nineties in one form or another. The current iteration uses a slightly chunkier last than the original, but the construction is unchanged. Full-grain leather uppers. Leather lining. A rubber half-sole stitched, not glued, to a leather midsole.

I bought mine in 2020. They cost €650 at the time, which felt steep for a loafer without hand-stitching or bespoke detailing. Four years on, the uppers have developed the kind of patina you only get from regular wear. The rubber sole has worn down evenly and could be replaced for €80 at any competent cobbler. The heel counter still holds its shape. The insole has moulded to my foot without collapsing.

This is not a soft shoe. It took three weeks to break in properly, and the first few wears left blisters along the back of my heel. But once the leather relaxed, the fit became near-perfect. The last is narrow through the midfoot, which suits a low-volume foot but will punish anyone with a wider instep.

The Medusa plaque itself—cast brass, about the size of a two-euro coin—sits flush with the vamp. It does not snag on trouser hems, and it has not tarnished despite four years of exposure to rain, salt, and the occasional spill. That alone tells you something about the hardware Versace uses when it wants a piece to last.

These are not dress loafers. The sole is too thick, the profile too casual. But they work under flannel trousers, they work with denim, and they work in contexts where a sleeker shoe would look affected. I have worn them to fittings, to dinners, to the kind of industry events where you are on your feet for three hours straight. They do not complain.

The Sneaker That Did Not

The Trigreca—Versace's chunky-soled runner, launched in 2021—looked like a shoe built to last. Leather and nylon uppers. A lugged rubber sole that appeared substantial. A price point north of €800, which suggested serious construction underneath the branding.

It was not. The sole began delaminating after fourteen months of regular wear. Not at the heel, where you would expect wear, but along the forefoot, where the rubber meets the midsole. The glue simply gave up. I took them to a cobbler in Shoreditch who specialises in sneaker repair. He reglued the sole, charged me £60, and told me the original adhesive was not up to the job.

The uppers, to their credit, held fine. The nylon did not fray. The leather did not crack. But a shoe is only as good as its weakest component, and in this case, that component was the bond between sole and body.

I had the Trigreca resoled entirely six months later. New Vibram sole, new adhesive, another £120. At that point, I had spent close to €1,000 on a sneaker that should have lasted three years without intervention. I still wear them—they are comfortable, and the resoling gave them another lease—but I would not buy another pair.

This is not unique to Versace. Many fashion-house sneakers use construction methods that prioritise aesthetics over longevity. But at this price, you should expect better.

The Chelsea Boot Worth Repeating

The Barocco-stitched Chelsea—black calf leather, Cuban heel, embroidered side panels—is the kind of boot that should not work as well as it does. The embroidery, done in tonal thread, is fussy in theory. In practice, it reads as texture rather than decoration.

I have owned mine for two years. The leather is still tight across the vamp. The elastic gussets have not stretched out. The heel, which is stacked leather rather than rubber, has worn down slightly but remains stable. The interior is fully lined in smooth calfskin, which has developed a soft sheen from wear.

These boots cost €950 when I bought them. They were made in Italy, in a factory that also produces for Santoni and a handful of other houses. You can feel the difference in the clicking—the way the leather has been cut to avoid weak spots, the way the stitching follows the natural grain.

The fit is narrow through the ankle, which works if you have slim legs but may pinch if you do not. The heel height—about 4cm—is higher than a standard Chelsea, which changes your posture slightly and takes some adjustment. But the boot balances well, and the Cuban heel does not wobble on uneven pavement.

I have worn these in rain, on cobblestones, through two London winters. They have held. The leather has darkened slightly, which suits them. The embroidery has not frayed. If they needed resoling tomorrow, I would do it without hesitation.

What Lasts, and How to Keep It That Way

Versace's durability is not consistent across the range. The house uses good materials when it chooses to, but not every model gets that treatment. The loafers and boots I have kept are Goodyear-welted or Blake-stitched. The sneaker that failed was cemented construction, which is always a gamble at high price points.

If you are buying Versace shoes for the long term, look for leather soles or stitched rubber. Avoid anything that relies solely on adhesive to hold the sole in place. Check the lining—if it is synthetic, the shoe will not breathe, and it will not age well. Ask where it was made. Italian production is not a guarantee of quality, but it is a useful signal.

Once you own them, treat them as you would any leather shoe. Tree them after every wear. Condition the uppers twice a year. Resole before the leather midsole is exposed. Versace's hardware—buckles, plaques, zips—is generally robust, but it will tarnish if you do not wipe it down occasionally.

The house's shoes are not indestructible. But the right models, maintained properly, will outlast most of what you see on a runway.